Concrete Contractor in Dyer, IN - Driveways and Patios That Shed Water

You start with the Town of Dyer, which issues permits for improvement work in the community through its building office. The office puts together permitting packets, each holding the applications for one type of work, so you begin with the packet for your project on the Dyer building permits page. You can submit it in person, by fax or by email at building@townofdyer.com, or call the office at (219) 865-4228 on weekdays from 7:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. If you hire us, we check with the office whether your job needs a permit and handle it when it does.

Yes, Dyer requires every construction contractor to be registered before they work there. Registration calls for a current $5,000.00 bond and a certificate of insurance for $500,000.00 or more covering bodily injury and property damage, with the Town of Dyer listed as a certificate holder. This year's registrations expire December 31, 2026, so it's fair to ask anyone pouring at your house whether theirs is current.

A Dyer permit expires and is canceled if the work hasn't begun within 90 days of being issued. For work valued under $600,000.00, which takes in any home driveway or patio, it also expires if the work isn't substantially done within a year, and a new permit is then needed for what's left. When a job needs a permit, we schedule the pour soon after it's issued so the job doesn't sit.

The price comes from your driveway's size and thickness, how much old concrete has to be torn out and hauled away, and how much base work your ground needs, so the real number is the one I write down after measuring. A plain broom finish, the light texture that gives tires grip, costs less than stamped or colored concrete, and a yard stump or a drainage fix adds work. If the budget is tight, I'd rather you skip the pattern than cut the base, because the base is buried on day one and it's the one part you can't fix later without tearing the slab out.

Most of the time it's what's under the slab, not the concrete. A slab poured on dirt that was raked level instead of dug out and packed settles as that dirt settles, and in yards that hold water after rain it softens faster. We dig down to a firm subgrade, the ground the slab sits on, pack the base, slope the surface so water runs off and cut control joints on time. Concrete still cracks some, but done that way it cracks in the joints, where it's meant to.

You can walk on it well before you can park on it, because concrete needs curing time, the stretch where it hardens and gains strength, before it can carry a car. Cool fall and spring weather stretches that wait, so when we finish I give you the timing for walking on your slab and for driving on it. The bigger schedule question is usually getting started, since the pour waits on dry weather and on any permit or inspection the job needs.